Trouble Shooting

Welcome to our troubleshooting page.


Because of a bookcase door's depth, any slight variation during installation or a wall's surface slightly out of plumb/ level will be exaggerated by the bookcase itself. We created this page to address some of the more common installation issues with the hopes that the information on this page will help you to solve the problems you are having. 

Before starting its important to know that each unit is made from the finest hand-picked real wood materials and constructed in our 17 thousand square foot climate controlled state-of-the-art woodshop. Every door is built on a perfectly flat surface using squaring jigs and methods by a skilled craftsman. Each unit is thoroughly inspected & photographed prior to packaging it up for delivery. 

In-Swing Doors

#1 - The Problem: the top of the door (opposite side of the hinges) touches first

bo the bottom is gapped. See photo:

#2 - The Cause: The wall in this example is not plumb, The bubble in the level is between the lines but the space on 

either side of the bubble is not the same.

#3 - Plumb: When the space on each side of the bubble is the same, your level is plumb. This might not seem like a lot

#4 - Wall is out: but in the distance of this 6' level, the gap at the bottom is about

3/4 of an inch causing the door not to shut properly. 

#5  Making adjustments:

Occasionally a wall can be out in different directions on both sides of the opening compounding the issue preventing you

from getting a proper installation. The adjustments you decide to make will depend on the problem you are having. Some times you'll need to make several small adjustments in concert with one and other, keeping in mind that it is the wall that is out and not the door. Those adjustments you make might be throwing the door out of alignment slightly to conform to the wall being out. In other words, using our example for instance, we can pull the bottom left side of the door away from the wall slightly while holding the top-left tight while pulling the top right side away from the wall just slightly and holding the bottom right in tight to the wall. The small space created can be filled with caulk and painted. This type of an adjustment might have to be a compromise if in order to correct the issue 100% creates a large gap between the door and the wall. We recomend that if you determine the door has to move away from the wall, that you don't more it more than 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch. The space you create can be filled with caulk and painted the same color as the wall.

Another slightly more unorthodox solution might be to try "bump" the wall closer to plumb. Using a block, or a scrap piece of 2x4 bang the bottom of the wall with a framing or small sledgehammer in the direction that you need it to be plumb. If you are able to move the bottom plate, it would be advised to screw the 2x4 wall plate through the rough framing and into the subfloor to make sure it doesn't more. Again, small adjustments.

The easiest solution is what we decided to do on our showroom door. Because the top hits before the bottom, we simply attached the bottom mechanical latch so that with the tension set properly, it will hold the door in the shut position from top to bottom. Every unit ships with a mechanical latch; directions for install are in the installation manual.